Cruising Portugal to Italy, March 2023
My husband Marcus and I travelled for 14 days from Lisbon to Italy, including a 9 day cruise on Azamara on our latest Dream Vacation. Here is a rundown of our journey and the things I enjoyed and would recommend, along with a few words of wisdom.
Lisbon, Portugal
Quick and seamless entry into Lisbon through customs. Nice airport!
The Lisbon airport is close to city center, so under a 30 minute drive. We had a private transfer waiting, and it was so easy after a red eye flight.
We stayed at the Avani Avenida hotel on Liberdade, great shopping street and we were near the higher end shops. The hotel was clean and the staff as great, but I would probably stay closer to the waterfront next time. Lisbon is very hilly and can definitely be difficult to walk for some people.
We did a private Tuk Tuk tour through “I took a tuk tuk” and it was great. 4 hours around Lisbon and saw the lookout, Alfama, the Belem Tower, Monument for the Portuguese Age of Discovery, LX Factory and more.
Alfama is the old fisherman district and really neat to walk around, although lots of hills and steps as well. The streets are very narrow and cars can’t get through much of this ancient section. Fado shows are very famous and there is even a fado museum in this district.
We arrived on a Sunday and there were a lot of street vendors set up near the waterfront and in the squares around the city, selling art, jewelry and handicrafts.
If you like beer, the local brews are Super Bock and Sagres. We liked Sagres better. There is also a beer museum near the waterfront and is only 7.5 euros per ticket. This also includes your choice of a local beer to try. It only takes about 30 minutes so I recommend giving this a try!
When visiting Lisbon, you need to try Ginjinha. It is a sour cherry liqueur and you can grab a little glass for about 1.5 euros around the city. In Alfama, we had one served in a little chocolate shot glass and it tastes just like a chocolate covered cherry!
Portugal is also famous for seafood. Try the mix of seafood steamed in a cataplana, or traditional copper pot. Octopus, Mussels, Fish, Shrimp, Lobster and many other types of seafood are all available in abundance!
This region is also known for the famous black pig, and their aged Iberico ham is a must try. Go for the longer aged option when available. We tried the 5 year at a few places and it was delish!!
The most famous pastry, the Pastel De Nata, is a custard tart that can be found throughout the city. I recommend getting it while hot, and topping with some cinnamon. Delicious! The most famous place is Pasteis de Belem and has been making them since 1837.
The Monument for the Portuguese Age of Discovery includes navigators such as Magellan and other noteworthy writers, captains, mathematicians, painters and royalty.
The trams are a great way to get up and down some of the hilly areas, or if you are tired of walking. Different lines are listed on the tram stops, and a friendly local can tell you which one to ride. Or just hop on for an adventure!
Taxis are relatively inexpensive and can cost around 10 euros for a 25 minute ride. The tuk tuks are expensive just to use as transportation, so I wouldn’t recommend. If you are booking a tuk tuk tour, do so in advance to make sure you are getting an option with good ratings!
LX Factory is a old textile complex, and now is a trendy little street full of shops, restaurants, bars and art.
The elevator, known as the Santa Justa Lift can have long lines. If you are up for a (hilly) walk, you can get to the top for free. Really beautiful at sunset!
With the exception of a few people that might approach you, offering the selling “substances”, Lisbon felt very safe. The locals were very nice, the city was clean, and I would definitely visit again!
The Azamara Pursuit
Boarding our ship in Lisbon, the process was very easy. The Azamara Pursuit maxes out at about 700 passengers, but our ship was about half full. The staff is always super attentive, but with only about 400 people onboard the guest to staff ratio was 1:1.
The ship did not have as impressive artwork as the Quest (in my opinion) but could not have been cleaner or more well maintained.
The food onboard is incredible. We mostly did the buffet for breakfast, had lunch while in port, and dinner in the main dining room. Azamara rotates the menu based on location… ie French, British, Italian, etc. They also have classics like Shrimp Cocktail, Escargot, French onion soup, steak, salmon and more that is always available.
We also opted for 2 specialty dinners… Prime C, their Steakhouse, and a special Chefs Table, French 6 course menu with wine pairings. While this is an additional cost, it is nice to try a special experience while onboard.
We also participated in a few activities onboard, such as Bingo (you can win a cruise!) and a cornhole tournament. We only attended one show (long port days are tiring!) but it was really good. Additional activities included trivia, shuffleboard, wine and whiskey tasting courses, lectures, a smartphone photography class and more.
Azamara is mostly inclusive onboard, offering standard drinks and gratuities included. The small ship can get into more ports than the floating cities, and more late and overnight stays make this line a great choice. Overall super happy!!
Gibraltar, UK
Our first port was Gibraltar. Very interesting place with a British vibe, yet also Mediterranean. You can stand in the UK and see both Spain and Africa. 3 countries, 2 continents and both the Atlantic and Mediterranean at the same time. Really cool.
Africa behind us on the left, and Spain to the right.
We started our tour with a visit to the Gibraltar National Museum. Did you know the first Neanderthal skull was found in Gibraltar? You can also see 14th century Moorish baths and many artifacts and exhibitions here.
Next we took the gondola to the top of the rock. This is a great viewpoint and really incredible to see.
You can also see the “rock apes” which are not actually apes, but Barbary macaques which are monkeys. Originally from the Atlas Mountains, they are the only population of wild monkeys in Europe. They are very cute, and very mischievous! They will steal bags, hats and anything not nailed to you.
Our next stop visited the Siege Tunnels through the Rock of Gibraltar. These war tunnels from the 18th century were very interesting. Although Gibraltar itself is only 2.6 square miles, the tunnels equal around 34 miles… twice the length of all the roads in Gibraltar!
Malaga, Spain
In Malaga, we opted to just walk around on our own. The beach is really beautiful, so we just spent most of the time here. It’s not too far from the port.
There are shops and restaurants along the waterfront with outside seating at the marina.
We also walked up to the hillside lookout called Mirador de Gibralfaro which has picturesque views.
Barcelona, Spain
Barcelona is a wonderful city. We opted for a tour here that included a walking portion, tapas lunch and skip the line access to the Sagrada Familia. I definitely recommend the skip the line tickets, even for the additional cost. Money well spent vs. standing in line for what can be hours. The Sagrada Familia is absolutely breathtaking and probably the most amazing building I have ever seen. Definitely do not miss this!
We had an overnight in Barcelona, so opted to have dinner off the ship and see a Flamenco show this evening. Lots of great restaurants along La Rambla, the main street.
Gaudi architecture is prominent around the city and you can also visit his home if you have time. We did this on a previous trip to Barcelona and it is worth the visit.
The Mercado de La Boqueria is a huge market that is neat to see. Lots of meat, fish, seafood and even some unusual items such as pig and lamb heads, tongue and more. The fresh fruit juice was delicious, and they have many dessert and candy stalls to cure your sweet tooth.
With Barcelona being a bigger city, watch for pickpockets.
Nice, France
It was a 1.5 mile walk along the water which was nice, but you could also take a shorter route to old town. Nice was another port we decided to walk around and explore on our own.
The beach here is very rocky but so beautiful, and the sound of the waves tumbling the rocks was really cool. This area of the French Riviera, or Côte d'Azur, has really beautiful water.
We stopped in a restaurant to try the escargot and I accidentally flung it at Marcus! They come in the shell with little spring tongs that take some finesse (which I admittedly do not have). Delicious though!
We popped into a few churches, stopped for a glass of wine and some live music, and just explored this really cute French town. Nice is nice!
Pisa, Italy
Pisa was great. We also did this day on our own, as the train from the port of Livorno to Pisa was only 10 euros, round trip for both of us! The taxis wanted $160. It is a bit of a walk from the pier to rail station in Livorno, about 2 miles, but taxis will do this for about 20 euros.
Walking from the train station to the tower was around 1 mile and we stopped for the most amazing pasta and a gelato along the way.
The leaning tower was so great to see. We opted for the ticket that included the climb to the top of the tower and access to the additional buildings in the compound. You do not need a ticket to access the grounds, just to enter the buildings. It was 27 euros and we purchased it upon arrival. They do this by time slot.
It is a bit of a walk up, and you can definitely feel the tilt the higher you go. Views from the top are great!
steps after 650 years of wear
After our tour, we had a nice glass of wine right at a little restaurant across from the tower. And of course had to take the obligatory tourist photos!
Florence, Italy
Florence is a good distance from Livorno, so we opted for a tour this day. We had 5 hours on our own to explore, so I pre-planned this day to ensure we fit everything in.
We started with an app and glass of wine at the Duomo. Fried pizza dough topped with Prosciutto and creamy Mozzarella? Yes, please!!
I pre-booked tickets to the Accademia Gallery for a specific time slot. The lines here can also be hours, so definitely pre-book!!! I literally teared up when I saw Michelangelo’s David… something I have always wanted to see. The Accademia also had many great sculptures and paintings.
We then headed to the Duomo and Giotto tower. We purchased the ticket to climb the tower on arrival, but you have to purchase the full ticket which includes entry to the Baptistery of San Giovanni and museum, which unfortunately we did not have time for.
***word of caution, the Giotto tower is not for the faint of heart. It is extremely narrow with 2 way traffic. I mean you literally have to squeeze through. The steps are less than a few inches in some spots and is not recommended for anyone with a heart condition or claustrophobia***
This was as high as I made it. Beautiful…
Marcus’ view from the top, and one of my favorite photos from the whole trip.
We finished our day in Florence sharing a Bistecca alla Fiorentina steak at Trattoria Dall'Oste. Very close to the Duomo and rated the 25th best steakhouse in the world, it is one of the best things I have ever eaten. This mammoth T bone from the Chianina breed comes sizzling with a sprinkle of salt, and trust me it needs nothing else! I will dream of this steak…
